Boys will be boys...

Boys will be boys, but being knotty just might be fashionable some day; the day you receive an invitation to a black-tie, or other formal affair. What you wear is just as important as how you wear it, whether attending a wedding, funeral, or crashing a Presidential State Dinner. Looking dapper and debonair, with a touch of culture and refinement, is the goal of every modern-day gent when faced with such an occasion. With this in mind, what’s all the fuss over 50+ inches of silk, and what’s with all those knots, anyway?  

The necktie, along with its forerunner the cravat, has been a predominately male fashion expression for centuries. Its origins can be traced to both military and royal attire of the early 17th century. Although an important piece of fashion history, there is no mandate that your formal ensemble conjure up memories of your father’s matching tie, handkerchief, and sock combinations. 

• The conservative look outranks all others within the professional arena. Keep things simple, while in a Corporate Environment or during a Job Interview, by wearing a dark suit, white dress shirt, and the classic, solid, navy-blue, or burgundy tie. Although a slight variation of tie color is acceptable, and simple prints are tolerated, avoid the temptation for bright colors or busy novelty prints at all costs; especially during the holiday season. 

•  When making a tie decision for Weddings, or other jubilant Celebrations, proceed with caution. Oftentimes, there are unspoken rules of etiquette for guests at a wedding, or other formal engagement. If you are not in the wedding party, pay special attention to your invitation, and any attire requests from your host. If the celebration is a black-tie affair, keep it simple and go with tradition. In the absence of such a request, bear in mind that weddings generally have a color theme. Grooms frequently choose the tie colors of white, silver, gray, sage green, pink, lavender, yellow, and orange. If you are not privy to this information, stick with basic tie colors and dark suits rather than making an unsolicited fashion statement. Although an Ascot tie, or other formal neckwear is in order, be careful not to upstage the groom.   

• Without question, Funerals are a definite black-tie affair. Stick with a black, dark blue or gray suit with a tie of similar color.  Enough said.  

• For Dating or Romantic occasions, feel free to liven up your fashion ensemble with a dose of imagination. Create a look that is warm, inviting, and friendly, as there is no need for conservatism here. Break the monotony of tradition with a splash of vibrant color, a unique print or pattern, a distinctive tie or Ascot pin, wearing a decorative vest in lieu of a jacket, or a variation of the necktie altogether.

Whatever you decide, make certain that your apparel is clean, pressed, and properly fitted. To the latter, every gent will know his measurements (neck, chest, sleeve, waist, and inseam), and is re-sized from time-to-time, to account for changes in his physique.  

Lastly, if you’re the uncomplicated type, don’t fret over the Windsor knot, Half-Windsor knot, Pratt/Shelby knot, Four-in-Hand knot, Small knot, Prince Albert knot, Cross knot, Ascot (Ruche, Cocolupa, or Naud Gordien) knot, Jabot, Bow Tie, and which knot, not to wear. Ties of the clip-on and pre-tied variety are fashion, that is fortunately made simple. 

Now that you’re all tied up, could there be an additional benefit of wearing a necktie? It should come as no surprise that, for women, there’s something inexplicably titillating about a well-groomed gent in a tie; the three Cs to be exact.  If you could read her mind, she’d share that you appear to be in Control, exhibit a Command presence, and convey a sense of Confidence, all by wearing a tie!  Not to mention the extra points earned for your quotient of appeal.   So what are you waiting for? Enjoy any formal event while looking your best.  

Don’t be afraid to tie the knot. Wear it – a necktie – the modern gent’s fashion accessory. 

-K. Walsh  

Black Leather with Silver Accents

Your bread and butter

Black leather with silver accents. The quintessential leather/metal combo. Chances are you already have this look covered. This collection will cover everything from conservative days at the office, to weddings, to anchoring your jeans and blazer combo. Extremely versatile and nearly foolproof.

The black and silver collection may be nearly foolproof, but somehow some guys still manage to screw it up. The one mistake, you can make, in this particular collection, is not recognizing the level of formality a particular piece has, and failing to stick to the same family. This goes beyond wearing a silver banded watch with your tuxedo (always wear a leather banded watch), but wearing rubber soled shoes with a suit, an athletic watch with your blazer, or a jean belt with your slacks. These are all mistakes-that while not incredibly important, prevent your outfit from becoming truly world class.

Porsche Design Cufflinks $540: Cufflinks exude power and class. Even if you don’t have the corner office yet doesn’t mean you can’t dress like you do.

Cole Haan Attache $775: Keep your dad’s briefcase at home. Your attache should be slim, and only carry the essentials.

Piaget Watch $12,000: Cufflinks and a Brietling are too much. Keep your watch subtle and elegant.

Salvatorre Ferragamo Shoes $550: If you don’t have a pair of Italian leather shoes, go buy a pair now. We mean it.

Persol Sunglasses $360: No need for a gaudy brand slapped on the side, keep it classic.

Calvin Klein Belt $325: High quality leather with a simple buckle that will never go out of fashion

Church’s Breast Pocket Wallet $320: Keep the bulge out of your pants, and go with this much more formal breast pocket wallet

Black Rubber with Silver Accents: Casual Edition

For Jeans and Blazer Days

If you’re lucky enough to work in a place that allows jeans, then tone your formality down a notch. Swap leather for rubber. This look implies that no one can tell you how to dress, because chances are– you’re the boss. That you park an Alfa Romeo, and not that sedan you actually drive. Subdued, but elegant, this collection is as rugged as it is refined.

Banana Republic Shoes $158: Not only are rubber soled shoes more comfortable, they look more casual too.

Cartier Santos Watch $5,900: The ultimate sport watch. The rubber strap completes the theme of this look.

Fabien Baron Sunglasses $375: Jeans? and Aviators? Who is this guy?

Louis Vuitton Messenger Bag $1500: Swap the briefcase for the shoulder bag and don’t look back

Dior Key Ring $165: Something has to hold your car keys right?

Church’s Belt $165: A little thicker of a belt to prevent your jeans from rolling down

Ermenigildo Zegna Case $275: Yeah. Just because.

Gold with Brown Leather

For the classiest of gentlemen

When we were younger, and obviously much more naive, we avoided gold like the plague. Considering it too gaudy, we now recognize it’s timeless appeal and it’s synonymous nature with class. Other then black leather with silver accents, no other look demands more respect. Some may even argue that this collection demands even more respect (us).

It is a slightly more difficult collection to complete as your hues of leather may vary, gold is a little more expensive than silver, and simply the pieces are harder to come by- but we believe that once complete, no collection looks better with a navy suit (the staple of a man’s wardrobe).

Prada Briefcase $1,900: Make sure that it cuts slim, and only holds your essentials. You want to make it seem like you bring some work home, not bring work to home.

Hermes Belt $600: Cut slim for your flat front pants, and anchored solid with that beautiful buckle.

Prada Aviators $270: Wire rimmed and horn accented. These puppies make anyone look like a movie star.

Constantin Durmont Skeleton Watch $3,700: You don’t own this watch. You merely hold onto it for the next generation.

Ferragamo Shoes $550: The high vamp on this shoe makes it look like a demi-boot. The gold accent doesn’t hurt either.

Mont Blanc Cufflinks $190: For the real power players in your office.

Silver with Chocolate Brown Leather

For the man on the go

If you work on the road, or travel often, this collection is calling your name. The ultimate paradox, classic yet casual- brown leather with silver accents. It remembers that this country wasn’t built by men wearing suits, and rebelliously call out to this time past. Unpretentious. Unassuming. This look shows that if you are waiting for something to turn up, you should start with your shirt sleeves.

Blinde Sunglasses $425: Wire frames match the on-the-go mentality of this collection

Rolex Watch $4,400: The tie-free look should come with an equally casual looking watch

Calvin Klein Attache $650: Matches your shoes chocolate brown and the pebbled leather borrows from the cowboy that inspired this look

Tag Heuer Cell Phone $4,565: Tag over values it’s brand. Don’t buy this overly expensive piece of equipment- we just couldn’t photoshop this out of the picture.

Want Les Credit Card Holder $115: Cash in your breast pocket, cards in your back.

Gucci Shoes $595: Wear them in but keep them shined. Wrinkles look good.

Tod’s Billfold $245: Once again, yeah. Just because.

Camel Leather with Silver Accents

European Elegance

If chocolate brown leather with silver accents is unpretentious, then camel leather says “Money is no object.” Wear this collection wisely because very few men have a single piece in camel leather, let alone a whole matching outfit- and once you do, you will be pegged as a fashion forward man forever. Worn with a charcoal, navy, or shark skin suit, this look exudes the utmost in modern luxury.

John Varvatos Shoes $395: It always starts with the shoes

Delvaux Folio $1,756: The attache that will bring this look together, once again cut as slim as your suit.

Goyard at Barney’s Wallet $515: Pulling out a camel colored wallet might be overkill. That’s why you’re gonna do it.

Gucci Watch $1.895: If your going for a look that says money is no object then an alligator banded watch is only appropriate

Belt, $550, by J.M. Weston. Sunglasses, $350, by Cutler and Gross. Card Case, $190, by Valextra at Barneys New York, Paul Stuart Clip $78

Feel free to mix and match to your heart’s desire. Build your collection slowly, and you will be ready to go for any occasion.

Relax. We’re pumped for wedding season too.

BUY IT Deauville Crest Cuff Links By Ralph Lauren $195.00

For years, discerning men of taste have carried handkerchiefs on their person. Now a silk handkerchief is a great way to not look like a repugnant degenerate when sneezing in public, wiping one’s sweaty face on a hot day, or blowing one’s nose. To all my neighborhood street pugilists, a handkerchief can easily substitute as a bandage for a minor injury. One could argue that handkerchiefs are unhygienic, but you can easily solve this problem by buying a few spares to account for laundry turnover; furthermore, handkerchiefs are more environmentally conscious than paper ones, making it a great conversation topic with an eco-loving hottie.

Not only are they a great way for a gentleman to handle his hygiene with style, a good looking silk hanky can add a little something extra to any ensemble. Put it in the breast pocket of your jacket or coat to put a finishing touch to a formal outfit, or in the breast pocket of a nice short-sleeve shirt to add some more presence to your person when at a casual gathering. I wouldn’t even worry so much about matching it with your clothes, you want eyes to wander to your breast pocket. I love this simple polka dot handkerchief, I find the white on blue droll as hell. The handkerchief is a timeless accessory for any man, be it for style or hygiene.
This hanky from Aspinal of London is only $20.
Get one here.

Cufflinks are to shirts what salt is to foodstuffs, the subtle little kick needed to make something perfect. As in all things, I usually tend to keep it simple. I hate ostentatious clothes and accessories, so these Ralph Lauren cuff links are just right, baby bear style. There isn’t a whole bunch of variety in formal wear for men, suits usually being different variations of the same design. Cuff links are a subtle way to artfully add some more color and presence to one’s person when attending formal events like galas, charity balls, weddings, and other things of that ilk.

I really like the simple design and how the black contrasts with the silver so well. The silver is sterling and the black material is carefully carved lacquer. I love the iconic image of the polo player, which is a classic icon, something I remember from my childhood when Ralph Lauren was at the top of their game. The high polished shine gives off an aura of elegance. These are the types of cuff links that will have you looking like a perfectly poised gentleman. These bad boys retail for around $225.

Buy them here.

That is because the eye slides over darker socks to focus on the shoes. That same eye stops at lighter colored socks, and focuses on the combination of trousers, socks and shoes. Which ought to be considerably more interesting.

Wear lighter colored socks.

-A Suitable Wardrobe

This cliché is arguably the most overused fashion advice when it comes to men. Despite this, men often neglect the choice and care of their footwear. The longevity and beauty of a man’s shoes is first determined by the quality of the shoe itself. However, once a quality shoe is acquired, proper care must be administered to ensure not only that the beauty of the shoe is enhanced, but the life of the shoe is extended.

Choosing a quality shoe:

Contrary to popular belief it does not take 400 dollars plus to purchase a quality bench-crafted Italian made shoe. At rare times these shoes are discounted anywhere for 20-50% allowing you, the consumer, to build an impressive collection at a fraction of the cost. Develop a relationship with your local shoe salesman and you’ll never pay full price again. Choose a shoe from a reputable brand with a leather sole and attractive shape (never square toe or thick rubber soled) and you’ll be on your way to starting your shoe collection. Additionally a leather sole molds to your foot, and becomes increasingly glove like over time. Install toe taps in your shoes approximately six-twelve months after purchasing to help further reduce wear on your shoes.

Caring for the Shoe:

Congratulations! You’ve just made a substantial step in improving your wardrobe. One of the simplest but often most unappreciated step is using full cedar shoe trees. Inserting them while your shoes are still sweaty is crucial to removing excess perspiration from the leather before it gets absorbed. Sweat is acidic which breaks down the leather thus making it softer and more susceptible to wrinkling. If you wear oxfords often, make sure you have a selection to cycle through to avoid wearing the same pair two days in a row. Shoe trees require a day to fully cure the leather and wearing a shoe the following day can shorten the life of a shoe drastically and create additional premature wrinkles in the leather. When the shoe tree gets old and loses its aromatic properties just rub it down with smooth grit sandpaper to rejuvenate its properties. This step alone will improve the life and beauty of the shoe by several years.

Shining Your Shoes:

Nothing is more impressive than a freshly shined pair of shoes. Shined shoes not only look great but they repel scuffs better. For this reason I always recommend to shine a brand new pair of shoes before you even wear them. This way if you scrape the shoe, you only scuff the polish and not the leather.

Saddle Soap:

This is the first step in shining your new shoes. This removes any old dust, wax, polish, and residue from the leather giving you a clean slate to work with. Applying polish over polish diminishes the shine and clogs the leather. Use a small horse hair applicator; lather the soap using a circular motion and water. Be very generous and get the leather extremely soapy. Avoid using on light colored shoes as this is a harsh product and will strip some colors. As with all products, apply on one shoe then apply on the other shoe before wiping the soap off both shoes with an old t-shirt or cloth in the same order.

Leather Lotion:

Wax-less Leather Care or Leather Lotion is one of the most beneficial products to leather on the market today. It moisturizes and rejuvenates the color of leather shoes. People often forget that leather is a skin and needs moisture to retain its vigor. Use this product generously and often, even in-between shines, to help prolong the life of your upper shoe. Apply this product with an old t-shirt or even your fingers and allow it to air dry into the leather.

Shoe Polish:

Now that the leather is clean and primed it is ready to accept the shoe polish. Always test the color on the tongue or another inconspicuous spot to ensure a match of color. Apply in a circular motion with an old t-shirt, applicator, or finger to the shoe starting from the front and working your way completely around the shoe. Remove the laces if necessary and ensure you coat the entire shoe in a light film of polish. Allow the polish to dry to a haze while you polish the other shoe. Use a large horse hair brush to remove the haze from the first shoe, and work your way from the front to the back. Pay close attention to the toe and heel as this is the most noticed parts of a shoe. The longer your brush the shoe, the shinier it will get so brush until you get the desired effect.

Wax Polish:

If you want to achieve an even more impressive shine, using a solid wax polish is the best way to achieve a mirror shine. Never use liquid wax as this dries out leather and causes it to crack. Ignite the wax block on fire, or use the heat from your finger to soften the paste and apply with your finger in a circular motion. Use sparingly as wax polish dries quick. Apply in a circular motion in the same manner as the shoe polish and buff away. Once again the longer you brush the shinier the shoe will get. Some leathers will marbleize if you use a rag to wipe down the leather after your finished buffing it. Then again sometimes the shine smears if you try to use a rag. It comes with experience and you can truly enhance the shine by using a shine rag to buff the leather after your finished brushing it.

Edge Dressing:

The icing on the cake, edge dressing, colors in the sides of your leather soles to make them look brand new. Truly a step that should not be missed, edge dressing, makes a shoe look better than brand new. Edge dressing can also be used to color in deep scuff marks that polish or wax can’t cover up. Edge dressing is completely optional however, and does not affect the longevity of the shoe. Regardless of the steps you take, by now the shine should be mirror bright and impressive enough for any corporate meeting.

If there is one category in your wardrobe worth investing in, it’s your footwear. If you take care of your feet, they will take care of you. Both in terms of comfort and in corporate clout. Your friends will never understand-or even notice the quality footwear completing your outfit, but your boss’ boss will.

1. Honor thy tailor

Even the best suits need altering. Pants need to be shortened, jackets need to be brought in, sleeves need to be narrowed (yes, you can ask your tailor to slim down your sleeves), and buttons need to be realigned with buttonholes (most guys’ shoulders aren’t entirely even, meaning your jacket often sits a bit askew). You should always buy your correct size, but you then need to have a tailor customize it to your body. It’s the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed.

2. Thou shalt wear sneakers made for a man

It’s fine to own crosstrainers and running shoes and hightops. But save them for the gym. When you’re on the street, keep your sneakers simple and classic. Go for ones like Stan Smiths, Jack Purcells, and Sambas. They work with everything, including suits.

3. Thou shalt invest in the right timepiece

Buy a high-quality stainless-steel watch. It looks as right with jeans as it does with your best blazer.

4. Thou shalt match your socks with your suit

When choosing socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you’re wearing a navy suit with black shoes, reach for navy socks. And when wearing a light suit, make sure the socks are darker than the suit but a shade or so lighter than the shoes.

5. Thou shalt not wear a tie that is too slim

Unless you’re a hard-core fashion guy who favors a superskinny tie, stick with one that measures about three inches at its widest point. It will be narrower than traditional ties, but not by too much. Tie one on and you’ll look modern and sophisticated.

6. Thou shalt put your wallet on a diet

Your wallet should not be as fat as a burrito. In fact, you should get rid of your wallet and, while you’re at it, trash all the receipts, video cards, and other unnecessary crap that’s stuffed in it. Buy an elegant, slim leather credit card holder and stock it with your essential cards. Then, fold your cash in a money clip. All that other nonsense can go in your desk drawer. You don’t need it.

7. Thou shalt wear the right tie with the right tux

Two points to remember: (1) A bow tie goes best with a peak-lapel tuxedo, while a straight tie works better with a notch lapel. (2) Regardless of what kind of tie you’re wearing, make sure the fabric matches the lapel. If your lapel is grosgrain, your tie should be grosgrain. If your lapel is satin, your tie should be satin. And one more thing: Your tie (no matter its shape) should be black. Colored ties are for the prom.

8. Thou shalt wear brown shoes—with nearly everything

Black dress shoes are easy—they’re understated and tasteful. Brown dress shoes up the style factor. People notice them. They go best with gray, khaki, or navy. Dark brown shoes are easier to pull off than light brown ones.

9. Thou shalt learn when to cuff ‘em

If you’re wearing a trim, modern suit with flat-front pants—the kind often shown in this magazine—you should not cuff your pants. However, if you’re a guy who likes a classic suit with a single pleat, go for a cuff—but not more than one and a half inches deep.

10. Remember thy undershirt

This one’s tricky. If you’re wearing a conventional white broadcloth dress shirt (which means it’s fairly see-through), you have two options: Skip the undershirt and you’ll look clean and stylish. Or, if you’re a hairy guy who perspires a lot and you feel safer in an undershirt, wear a crewneck. The lines of a V-neck or tank top will be visible beneath your shirt and tie and you’ll look cheesy. If you prefer a V-neck or tank top, you might consider other dress shirts. Go for ones with checks or stripes, which make an undershirt less visible. Or opt for hardier fabrics, like an oxford cloth, which make undershirts all but invisible.

Yup, pretty spot on.

The trick is to twist and tweak until finished. Bow ties look best when slightly imperfect. Too much symmetry is unnatural. You want people to see that its not pre-tied.

Oh and untie it as the night is winding down. As good as a bowtie looks tied, it looks even better untied draped over an open collar.

handgun optional