Bravado Living

We’ve been getting a lot of questions asking us the difference between a blazer, a suit jacket, and a sport coat. Well gentlemen we’re here to clear the air. Blazers are a basketball team from Portland, Oregon (please excuse the bad joke, it’s 2:00 am).

In all seriousness.

BLAZERS

Blazers are not merely jackets that are worn with a pair of off-color slacks. They are a staple in a man’s wardrobe. In many instances should be one of the first major clothing purchases in your life, and will serve you very well as versatile, stylish, anchor of your style. So what is it?

A blazer is a two or three button (buy it in two), wool jacket , most commonly seen in navy, and adorned with gold buttons. Other than your favorite pair of dark jeans, no item is more forgiving. Trust us. You can wear it with just about anything from khakis on casual friday, to jeans for a night on the town, to seersucker pants if you’re really feeling adventurous, this companion can do it all. If you don’t have one already, please buy one. Like most things they make, we prefer Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label version as it sits well, holds its shape, and looks phenomenal.

Also make sure to get it tailored. Notice the silhouette of the jacket above and how the shape can make you look jacked, even though you haven’t done a pull-up in your life.

SPORT COATS

Sport coats on the other hand tend to be a patterned worsted wool with either a checker, herringbone, or corset pattern. It is almost always a rougher texture due to it’s lower thread count. This lends itself as the most casual jacket of the bunch. Worn for lazy days at the track, a passport holder at the airport, or to dress up a pair of jeans, the sport coat- while not the most essential of items- will definitely yield itself useful when the time comes.

SUIT JACKET

The suit jacket is recognizable by it’s higher thread count and matching pants (never wear a jacket with “close enough” pants and try to pass it off as a suit- everyone can tell). It can be adorned by any number of patterns but most commonly a chalk or pin stripe like the suit featured below.

Notice the pocket square, thinner tie, and tailored jacket. Well done, sir. Well done indeed.

Introducing the Black Label Ralph Lauren collection to Barneys New York. The suit is part of this upcoming spring’s deluge of new clothes. This is definitely something to keep an eye out for. The Black Label suit is razor-sharp; blending the iconic good taste we have come to expect from Ralph Lauren with a young, sexy silhouette.

I think it’s just the bee’s knees. I would wear this anywhere and everywhere. To work, to lunch, to sleep, you name it. It’s sleek and sophisticated, a real gentleman’s piece. The color is great too, dark and neutral. This is a deal maker’s suit, a suit of kings.

If I bought this suit and got hit by a car, my last thought would be about how great the suit was going to look on me at my funeral. I can’t wait for spring.

BUY IT   Ralph Lauren Black Label Olive Linen Suit $1,850
Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., NYC, (888) 8BARNEYS

The trick with going tieless is making it seem like you don’t need a tie, not that you forgot one. In order to pull of this look you’ll need a two button suit (or one button if you think you can pull it off). Three button suits are for middle-managment and ESPN anchors. Wear it without a tie and risk looking boxy and sloppy. Two button suits on the other hand are little more modern, hip, and playful so you can rock the suit sans tie.

Next you’ll need to accessorize. If your jacket has a pocket, put something in it. And try to stay from Cuff links because they are difficult to pull off due to their formality so unless you’re Jason Stratham, or you’ve got a bow-tie hanging loose to match I’d stick to button sleeves.

Next, and most important is a fitted shirt with a STIFF collar. There’s nothing worse than a limp collar  hiding behind your jacket lapel. Make sure your collar stays upright and the shirt stays tight around your stomach ( you don’t need to look like you have a gut when you’ve been working so hard to get rid of it, right?). For the money, Express’s 1MX shirts are remarkably good at behaving and will work in a pinch.

And remember that none of this stuff matters if you don’t get clothes that fit.

Well Done Sir

Looks like Jason has been reading The Haute Spot recently.

Suit, $1,595, and shirt, $270, by Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, $550, by Allen-Edmonds Seven. Pocket square by Robert Talbott. Briefcase by Hermès.

-GQ

There is a saying that a man’s socks should be the same color as his trousers but a bit darker. Well, when no complementary colored hose are available a pair that is the color of the trousers will do. Just. But I prefer to see them somewhat lighter than the trousers rather than darker.

That is because the eye slides over darker socks to focus on the shoes. That same eye stops at lighter colored socks, and focuses on the combination of trousers, socks and shoes. Which ought to be considerably more interesting.

Wear lighter colored socks.

-A Suitable Wardrobe

Here are GQ’s 10 commandments of style:

1. Honor thy tailor

Even the best suits need altering. Pants need to be shortened, jackets need to be brought in, sleeves need to be narrowed (yes, you can ask your tailor to slim down your sleeves), and buttons need to be realigned with buttonholes (most guys’ shoulders aren’t entirely even, meaning your jacket often sits a bit askew). You should always buy your correct size, but you then need to have a tailor customize it to your body. It’s the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed.

2. Thou shalt wear sneakers made for a man

It’s fine to own crosstrainers and running shoes and hightops. But save them for the gym. When you’re on the street, keep your sneakers simple and classic. Go for ones like Stan Smiths, Jack Purcells, and Sambas. They work with everything, including suits.

3. Thou shalt invest in the right timepiece

Buy a high-quality stainless-steel watch. It looks as right with jeans as it does with your best blazer.

4. Thou shalt match your socks with your suit

When choosing socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you’re wearing a navy suit with black shoes, reach for navy socks. And when wearing a light suit, make sure the socks are darker than the suit but a shade or so lighter than the shoes.

5. Thou shalt not wear a tie that is too slim

Unless you’re a hard-core fashion guy who favors a superskinny tie, stick with one that measures about three inches at its widest point. It will be narrower than traditional ties, but not by too much. Tie one on and you’ll look modern and sophisticated.

6. Thou shalt put your wallet on a diet

Your wallet should not be as fat as a burrito. In fact, you should get rid of your wallet and, while you’re at it, trash all the receipts, video cards, and other unnecessary crap that’s stuffed in it. Buy an elegant, slim leather credit card holder and stock it with your essential cards. Then, fold your cash in a money clip. All that other nonsense can go in your desk drawer. You don’t need it.

7. Thou shalt wear the right tie with the right tux

Two points to remember: (1) A bow tie goes best with a peak-lapel tuxedo, while a straight tie works better with a notch lapel. (2) Regardless of what kind of tie you’re wearing, make sure the fabric matches the lapel. If your lapel is grosgrain, your tie should be grosgrain. If your lapel is satin, your tie should be satin. And one more thing: Your tie (no matter its shape) should be black. Colored ties are for the prom.

8. Thou shalt wear brown shoes—with nearly everything

Black dress shoes are easy—they’re understated and tasteful. Brown dress shoes up the style factor. People notice them. They go best with gray, khaki, or navy. Dark brown shoes are easier to pull off than light brown ones.

9. Thou shalt learn when to cuff ‘em

If you’re wearing a trim, modern suit with flat-front pants—the kind often shown in this magazine—you should not cuff your pants. However, if you’re a guy who likes a classic suit with a single pleat, go for a cuff—but not more than one and a half inches deep.

10. Remember thy undershirt

This one’s tricky. If you’re wearing a conventional white broadcloth dress shirt (which means it’s fairly see-through), you have two options: Skip the undershirt and you’ll look clean and stylish. Or, if you’re a hairy guy who perspires a lot and you feel safer in an undershirt, wear a crewneck. The lines of a V-neck or tank top will be visible beneath your shirt and tie and you’ll look cheesy. If you prefer a V-neck or tank top, you might consider other dress shirts. Go for ones with checks or stripes, which make an undershirt less visible. Or opt for hardier fabrics, like an oxford cloth, which make undershirts all but invisible.

Yup, pretty spot on.