Boys will be boys...

Boys will be boys, but being knotty just might be fashionable some day; the day you receive an invitation to a black-tie, or other formal affair. What you wear is just as important as how you wear it, whether attending a wedding, funeral, or crashing a Presidential State Dinner. Looking dapper and debonair, with a touch of culture and refinement, is the goal of every modern-day gent when faced with such an occasion. With this in mind, what’s all the fuss over 50+ inches of silk, and what’s with all those knots, anyway?  

The necktie, along with its forerunner the cravat, has been a predominately male fashion expression for centuries. Its origins can be traced to both military and royal attire of the early 17th century. Although an important piece of fashion history, there is no mandate that your formal ensemble conjure up memories of your father’s matching tie, handkerchief, and sock combinations. 

• The conservative look outranks all others within the professional arena. Keep things simple, while in a Corporate Environment or during a Job Interview, by wearing a dark suit, white dress shirt, and the classic, solid, navy-blue, or burgundy tie. Although a slight variation of tie color is acceptable, and simple prints are tolerated, avoid the temptation for bright colors or busy novelty prints at all costs; especially during the holiday season. 

•  When making a tie decision for Weddings, or other jubilant Celebrations, proceed with caution. Oftentimes, there are unspoken rules of etiquette for guests at a wedding, or other formal engagement. If you are not in the wedding party, pay special attention to your invitation, and any attire requests from your host. If the celebration is a black-tie affair, keep it simple and go with tradition. In the absence of such a request, bear in mind that weddings generally have a color theme. Grooms frequently choose the tie colors of white, silver, gray, sage green, pink, lavender, yellow, and orange. If you are not privy to this information, stick with basic tie colors and dark suits rather than making an unsolicited fashion statement. Although an Ascot tie, or other formal neckwear is in order, be careful not to upstage the groom.   

• Without question, Funerals are a definite black-tie affair. Stick with a black, dark blue or gray suit with a tie of similar color.  Enough said.  

• For Dating or Romantic occasions, feel free to liven up your fashion ensemble with a dose of imagination. Create a look that is warm, inviting, and friendly, as there is no need for conservatism here. Break the monotony of tradition with a splash of vibrant color, a unique print or pattern, a distinctive tie or Ascot pin, wearing a decorative vest in lieu of a jacket, or a variation of the necktie altogether.

Whatever you decide, make certain that your apparel is clean, pressed, and properly fitted. To the latter, every gent will know his measurements (neck, chest, sleeve, waist, and inseam), and is re-sized from time-to-time, to account for changes in his physique.  

Lastly, if you’re the uncomplicated type, don’t fret over the Windsor knot, Half-Windsor knot, Pratt/Shelby knot, Four-in-Hand knot, Small knot, Prince Albert knot, Cross knot, Ascot (Ruche, Cocolupa, or Naud Gordien) knot, Jabot, Bow Tie, and which knot, not to wear. Ties of the clip-on and pre-tied variety are fashion, that is fortunately made simple. 

Now that you’re all tied up, could there be an additional benefit of wearing a necktie? It should come as no surprise that, for women, there’s something inexplicably titillating about a well-groomed gent in a tie; the three Cs to be exact.  If you could read her mind, she’d share that you appear to be in Control, exhibit a Command presence, and convey a sense of Confidence, all by wearing a tie!  Not to mention the extra points earned for your quotient of appeal.   So what are you waiting for? Enjoy any formal event while looking your best.  

Don’t be afraid to tie the knot. Wear it – a necktie – the modern gent’s fashion accessory. 

-K. Walsh  

Know your nose

Were the rules of attraction made to be broken? If not broken, perhaps, enhanced? Who’s to say, but one thing is for certain: finding the right mix of sensuality, and pheromone, is the kind of thing genies have socked away in bottles for centuries. What makes women find a particular man desirable? Every man has a special ‘something’ that makes him unique, be it charm, bicep dimension, the proverbial shoe size, or the PIN number to his debit card. The list is exhaustive, so, how will you set yourself apart? 

You won’t find the answer in your father’s Old Spice, or even in the old school of conventional masculine wisdom. Although your heart’s settled on a favorite aromatic love tonic, does it truly define you? Does it drive the woman in your life passionately crazy, or does it drive her away? 

Give yourself a competitive edge, in the game of love, with the perfect scent for a sophisticated gent such as yourself.  Determine whether you prefer a strong and robust scent or a subtle, yet, clean and cool one. Whichever appeals to your senses, understand why this is so, by getting to know your nose.  From Giorgio Armani to Givenchy, and Ralph Lauren to Bvlgari, with so many scents from which to choose, how will you best decide? 

It’s in the notes. To be precise, the composition of any fine fragrance (male or female) is such that it will feature three distinct elements, or notes (top/head, middle/heart, and base), each unfolding over time; creating a symphony for the senses. Top notes offer an introductory scent that tends to be lighter, yet is highly volatile. Chances are you purchased your favorite scent based on this particular note. Top notes evaporate quickly, so allow a fragrance time to linger.  You will soon discover that the best of it has only begun. 

Enter the middle note. Often referred to as the heart of the fragrance, middle notes are strong and enduring. Remember that you are unique, and no two men will wear the same fragrance alike. When testing a fragrance, wear it no less than 15 minutes. In time, it will emit a signature aroma, as the elements fuse with your body’s natural chemistry. 

Last, but not least, are the base notes. These are the strongest ingredients of a fragrance, and serve as a fixative melding all other notes together. The base note provides for extended wear, of a fragrance, and prolongs its aromatic properties. 

All scents, from the impostor to the designer, belong to one of four distinct categories including Fresh, Floral, Oriental, and Woody (with a central trans-category of Aromatic Fougère). That’s right!  Contrary to popular belief, all fragrances are, in fact, cut from the same cloth.

By concentration, cologne contains 2 – 5% essential oils, and fragrance compounds, in contrast to perfumes, which contain upwards of 20%.  As nature’s perfect stimulants, essential oils induce certain euphoric and relaxing sentiments. Common notes used in male fragrances include Bergamot, Cedar, Ginger, Lavender, Neroli, Patchouli, Sandalwood, and Vetiver. It’s no accident that these are woody, aromatic, tranquil, and soothing. 

So what did Giovanni Paolo Feminis know that the rest of us would pay an arm and leg?  He knew that men deserve special recognition in their quest to enhance the rules of attraction.  In answering this masculine battle cry, Giovanni developed the perfect Scent for a Gent – his 1709 romantic elixir – cologne. Thus, the contemporary concept of male fashion cologne was born. The rest of this story can be found on Saks’ Fifth Avenue, your bedroom armoire, and in every department store worldwide.                                                                                                          

SCENT hints for a GENT:

1. Determine which notes are in your favorite cologne, or other fragrance.
2. Score some free samples online, or the next time you purchase at a department store.
3. Test no more than three scents at a time; any more will cloud your sense of smell.
4. The smell of coffee beans will clear the sinuses; the sales representative will have some.
5. Apply cologne to clean skin, most commonly after a shower.
6. Cologne should be worn on the body; hotspots include wrists, neck, and behind ears.
7. Rubbing wrists together will crush, or breakdown, a scent more rapidly. 
8. Spray cologne into the air, and walk into the mist for even distribution.
9. Store cologne in a cool, dry, place away from direct sunlight.
10. Properly stored cologne will last approximately three years. 

Now that you’ve got the basics, a little trial, and error, is in order. You hereby have permission to slather, spritz, and douse… within reason.

-K. Walsh

Close, but no cigar

Power used to be flashy. Now, it’s unassuming. It used to brash. Now, it’s calculated. It’s time for you to buy a solid dark tie. No wider then the lapel on your 2 button suit, the dark tie commands respect without expecting it. The dark tie is worn by the first one to work, and the last one to leave. He talks a big game, but still exceeds all expectations. He’s younger then everyone else, and already moving into the corner office. Hell, he deserves it.

You deserve it

Good Luck and Happy Hunting.

-Bravado Living

No

Just because you’re wearing jeans and blazer does not mean you look good. If it looks like you borrowed your dad’s jacket, and are still wearing the same jeans you wore in high school then it’s time you change the way you shop. If you haven’t already followed our advice make sure everything you wear is slimmer and form-flattering.

If nothing is form flattering for you– then you’re probably fat-lose weight.

When you wear a button-down and blazer you need to get a shirt that fits well. Only a sliver of shirt cuff should show near your wrists. This means the shirt must fit you slim as well. No more bunching at the waist. That gives you the appearance of love handles even if you have a 6-pack.

Lose the baggy shirts Soulja Boi

Also square-toe shoes are never in fashion. They are the PT Cruisers of the fashion world. Never cool, but their owners are oblivious.

Next, the blazer. Make sure blazers hug your shoulders, and get a tailor to take it in at the waist and arms.

Jeans that are meant to go out should be dark. Hell, all your jeans should be dark. Opt for a dark navy with no crazy designs. We like Rock and Republic for their simple elegance and the lack of a douche bag stigma associated with True Religion. Make sure they fit you like your khakis do. Snug but not 80′s metal tight. If I can count the coins in your pocket- use them to call a tailor.

Spring for a nice pair- even if they’re $200 bucks. If you wear them 50 times over the next four years, they’ll be cheaper than that $60 dollar shirt sitting in your closet for that past five. Remember fashion rule number seven.

You follow this simple advice, you’ll walk on water next time you go out.

Unshakably Confident

Save the jumping for Kobe though.

Blazer, $2,025, and jeans, $450, by Dolce & Gabbana. Shirt, $168, by Steven Alan. Shoes, $820, by Church’s.

Suits? Arguable. In the 90′s it was all about 3-Button Suits. In the Early 2000′s vested 3-piece suits became all the rage. Now conjuring your best “Mad Men” impression 2-button suits are the only thing worth wearing.

Black Oxford Shoe? Good choice. But you can’t deny the popularity of laceless slip-ons, and the dismal ubiquity of square toed rubber bottom atrocities that plagued every middle-management type throughout the 90′s.

The Pea Coat has remained unchanged. Sure you have options. You can go single breasted, double breasted, short, long, camel, black, regardless of your choice we can guarantee you one thing– if you buy one, you will be able to wear it. Every. Single. Year. Regardless of the current fashion trend.

Which is why we recommend you don’t just buy one, we at THS recommend you invest in one.

Here are a few suggestions when looking for one.

1.) Fit is Everything

You want to wear a coat. You don’t want a coat to wear you. Get one in the same size as your suit jacket, not a size bigger. Take it to a tailor if you need to. If the shoulders of the jacket are hanging off your bony frame, and the arms look like you’re wearing a snuggie– then it looks like someone brought their kid to work day rather than commanding the respect you deserve.

Camel Cashmere Coat by Calvin Klein $1,995

If you want to be daddy; you can’t  look like you’re borrowing daddy’s clothes.

In terms of length you can go shorter, but the just shorter than knee length version is as classic as it gets.

2.) Know your colors

Black-Classic. The original. Resists stains the best, and will never fail you. Looks great with almost every color suit you own except that sharp chocolate brown one you save for casual friday.

Burberry Top Coat $2,300

Blue-Not just any blue. Navy Blue. This one is sharp. Get a cashmere blend so it has a sheen to it. Looks better on than a black topcoat with almost every color suit you own. Plus, it won’t clash when you decide to wear brown leathers instead of black- in fact it will enhance the outfit. If you buy just one color. This is it.

Navy Cashmere Coat by Prada $4,155

Grey-A nice alternative on days where you want your dark suit to really stand out.

Top Coat by Z. Zegna $1,095

Camel- The Ferrari of top coats. This color will make you stand out- and that’s what it’s designed to do. In an elevator of black, blue, and grey, the camel coat will get you noticed. Just take off the shades. You’re not that cool.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Coat $4,995

Also FYI: Camel-Haired coats are actually camel hair while Camel-Colored can be made from any fabric.

3.) Know your fit

Single Breasted- Going with a dark colored, single-breasted top coat and you will never go wrong. It’s also the most likely to fit flatteringly.

Fred Perry Top Coat $480

Double Breasted- Get this cut slim. It’s vital. With double the breast, you also get double the coat. Get a modern fit that compliments your figure, not disfigures it. The double-breasted also hails from days in the military, giving it a much more aggressive look. In the cutthroat environment of business-we’re not so sure that’s a bad thing.

Black Wool Coat by Burberry $2,250

Tip: Get your coat sprayed with suede protector. Not only will it become water repellent but will resist that unavoidable coffee spill in the elevator the first day you wear it.

With this new found knowledge you should be ready to upgrade your wardrobe and get the only piece of clothing that may outlast you.

[Hat Tip]

Didn’t we tell you that a great pair of shoes didn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. For instance, check out these gorgeous Italian made wingtips with a classic medallion toe. Constructed out of brown calf and suede leathers, these are too casual for the office, but will instantly give your weekend look a touch of “old school cool.”

A man that wears these shoes is the kind of man that wears argyle socks. Probably has a library card. Returns phone calls in a timely manner. Smells clean like the woods. Has neat penmanship. Calls his grandmother at least once a week just to say hi. Can sew a button onto a shirt, if need be. Returns calls in a timely manner. Had a zine in high school and/or a blog now. Has created at least one piece of artwork on his bedroom walls. Writes songs on his acoustic guitar. Knows how to drive stick shift cars. Never kisses and tells. Will make you dinner on your third date. Wears v-neck sweaters. Listens to rap music while he does housework. Appreciates a good scotch. Has a cool brother. Has smoked a cigar and/or a pipe at some point. Owns a shoe shine kit. Likes British sit-coms. In other words, he’s probably a pretty cool guy.

You have to dress for the life you want. Not the life you have. At $130 bucks, these shoes seem like a good place to start.

BUY IT Johnston and Murphy Matheson Wingtip Shoes $130

In all seriousness.

BLAZERS

Blazers are not merely jackets that are worn with a pair of off-color slacks. They are a staple in a man’s wardrobe. In many instances should be one of the first major clothing purchases in your life, and will serve you very well as versatile, stylish, anchor of your style. So what is it?

A blazer is a two or three button (buy it in two), wool jacket , most commonly seen in navy, and adorned with gold buttons. Other than your favorite pair of dark jeans, no item is more forgiving. Trust us. You can wear it with just about anything from khakis on casual friday, to jeans for a night on the town, to seersucker pants if you’re really feeling adventurous, this companion can do it all. If you don’t have one already, please buy one. Like most things they make, we prefer Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label version as it sits well, holds its shape, and looks phenomenal.

Also make sure to get it tailored. Notice the silhouette of the jacket above and how the shape can make you look jacked, even though you haven’t done a pull-up in your life.

SPORT COATS

Sport coats on the other hand tend to be a patterned worsted wool with either a checker, herringbone, or corset pattern. It is almost always a rougher texture due to it’s lower thread count. This lends itself as the most casual jacket of the bunch. Worn for lazy days at the track, a passport holder at the airport, or to dress up a pair of jeans, the sport coat- while not the most essential of items- will definitely yield itself useful when the time comes.

SUIT JACKET

The suit jacket is recognizable by it’s higher thread count and matching pants (never wear a jacket with “close enough” pants and try to pass it off as a suit- everyone can tell). It can be adorned by any number of patterns but most commonly a chalk or pin stripe like the suit featured below.

Notice the pocket square, thinner tie, and tailored jacket. Well done, sir. Well done indeed.

Next you’ll need to accessorize. If your jacket has a pocket, put something in it. And try to stay from Cuff links because they are difficult to pull off due to their formality so unless you’re Jason Stratham, or you’ve got a bow-tie hanging loose to match I’d stick to button sleeves.

Next, and most important is a fitted shirt with a STIFF collar. There’s nothing worse than a limp collar  hiding behind your jacket lapel. Make sure your collar stays upright and the shirt stays tight around your stomach ( you don’t need to look like you have a gut when you’ve been working so hard to get rid of it, right?). For the money, Express’s 1MX shirts are remarkably good at behaving and will work in a pinch.

And remember that none of this stuff matters if you don’t get clothes that fit.

Well Done Sir

Looks like Jason has been reading The Haute Spot recently.

Suit, $1,595, and shirt, $270, by Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, $550, by Allen-Edmonds Seven. Pocket square by Robert Talbott. Briefcase by Hermès.

-GQ

]]> http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/20/learn-to-go-tieless/feed/ 1 http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/13/wearing-lighter-color-socks/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=wearing-lighter-color-socks http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/13/wearing-lighter-color-socks/#comments Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:28:41 +0000 Chuck Nelson http://thehautespot.com/?p=329 There is a saying that a man’s socks should be the same color as his trousers but a bit darker. Well, when no complementary colored hose are available a pair that is the color of the trousers will do. Just. But I prefer to see them somewhat lighter than the trousers rather than darker.

That is because the eye slides over darker socks to focus on the shoes. That same eye stops at lighter colored socks, and focuses on the combination of trousers, socks and shoes. Which ought to be considerably more interesting.

Wear lighter colored socks.

-A Suitable Wardrobe

1. Honor thy tailor

Even the best suits need altering. Pants need to be shortened, jackets need to be brought in, sleeves need to be narrowed (yes, you can ask your tailor to slim down your sleeves), and buttons need to be realigned with buttonholes (most guys’ shoulders aren’t entirely even, meaning your jacket often sits a bit askew). You should always buy your correct size, but you then need to have a tailor customize it to your body. It’s the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed.

2. Thou shalt wear sneakers made for a man

It’s fine to own crosstrainers and running shoes and hightops. But save them for the gym. When you’re on the street, keep your sneakers simple and classic. Go for ones like Stan Smiths, Jack Purcells, and Sambas. They work with everything, including suits.

3. Thou shalt invest in the right timepiece

Buy a high-quality stainless-steel watch. It looks as right with jeans as it does with your best blazer.

4. Thou shalt match your socks with your suit

When choosing socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you’re wearing a navy suit with black shoes, reach for navy socks. And when wearing a light suit, make sure the socks are darker than the suit but a shade or so lighter than the shoes.

5. Thou shalt not wear a tie that is too slim

Unless you’re a hard-core fashion guy who favors a superskinny tie, stick with one that measures about three inches at its widest point. It will be narrower than traditional ties, but not by too much. Tie one on and you’ll look modern and sophisticated.

6. Thou shalt put your wallet on a diet

Your wallet should not be as fat as a burrito. In fact, you should get rid of your wallet and, while you’re at it, trash all the receipts, video cards, and other unnecessary crap that’s stuffed in it. Buy an elegant, slim leather credit card holder and stock it with your essential cards. Then, fold your cash in a money clip. All that other nonsense can go in your desk drawer. You don’t need it.

7. Thou shalt wear the right tie with the right tux

Two points to remember: (1) A bow tie goes best with a peak-lapel tuxedo, while a straight tie works better with a notch lapel. (2) Regardless of what kind of tie you’re wearing, make sure the fabric matches the lapel. If your lapel is grosgrain, your tie should be grosgrain. If your lapel is satin, your tie should be satin. And one more thing: Your tie (no matter its shape) should be black. Colored ties are for the prom.

8. Thou shalt wear brown shoes—with nearly everything

Black dress shoes are easy—they’re understated and tasteful. Brown dress shoes up the style factor. People notice them. They go best with gray, khaki, or navy. Dark brown shoes are easier to pull off than light brown ones.

9. Thou shalt learn when to cuff ‘em

If you’re wearing a trim, modern suit with flat-front pants—the kind often shown in this magazine—you should not cuff your pants. However, if you’re a guy who likes a classic suit with a single pleat, go for a cuff—but not more than one and a half inches deep.

10. Remember thy undershirt

This one’s tricky. If you’re wearing a conventional white broadcloth dress shirt (which means it’s fairly see-through), you have two options: Skip the undershirt and you’ll look clean and stylish. Or, if you’re a hairy guy who perspires a lot and you feel safer in an undershirt, wear a crewneck. The lines of a V-neck or tank top will be visible beneath your shirt and tie and you’ll look cheesy. If you prefer a V-neck or tank top, you might consider other dress shirts. Go for ones with checks or stripes, which make an undershirt less visible. Or opt for hardier fabrics, like an oxford cloth, which make undershirts all but invisible.

Yup, pretty spot on.